"Hollow to hem" is a term used in the garment industry, particularly in pattern making and sewing, to describe the vertical measurement from the hollow of the back (the deepest part of the curve of the back waist) to the hemline of a garment. Understanding this measurement is crucial for creating well-fitting and properly proportioned clothing, especially for dresses, skirts, and tops.
It's important to differentiate "hollow to hem" from other similar measurements like "high hip to hem" or "waist to hem." While all these measurements relate to the garment's length, "hollow to hem" specifically references the deepest point of the back waist curve, offering a more precise measurement for garments intended to sit naturally at the waist.
Why is Hollow to Hem Important?
Accurate measurement of "hollow to hem" is vital for several reasons:
- Accurate Pattern Making: This measurement is a cornerstone in creating accurate garment patterns. An incorrect hollow-to-hem measurement leads to a garment that's either too short or too long, impacting the overall fit and drape.
- Consistent Sizing: Using this measurement consistently ensures consistent sizing across different garments, making it easier for manufacturers and designers to produce clothing that fits as expected.
- Professional Finish: A precisely measured hollow-to-hem ensures a professional finish. A garment with the correct length looks more polished and well-made.
- Comfort and Fit: This measurement is crucial for ensuring the garment sits correctly at the waist, providing comfort and a flattering silhouette. An improperly measured garment might pull, bunch, or gap at the waist.
How to Measure Hollow to Hem
Measuring accurately is essential. Here's a step-by-step guide:
- Find the Hollow: Locate the deepest point of the curve of your back waist. This is usually about halfway between your waist and the bottom of your rib cage. It can be helpful to have someone assist you with this step.
- Measure to Hem: Using a flexible measuring tape, measure from the hollow point straight down to where you want the hem of the garment to fall. Ensure the tape measure is held straight and taut. Stand naturally, without slouching or stretching.
Remember that your desired hemline length (e.g., mini, midi, maxi) dictates the final measurement.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Here are some frequently asked questions about hollow-to-hem measurements:
What is the difference between waist to hem and hollow to hem?
The difference lies in the starting point. Waist-to-hem measures from the natural waistline, while hollow-to-hem measures from the deepest point of the back waist curve, resulting in a more accurate measurement for many garment styles.
How do I account for ease when measuring hollow to hem?
Ease refers to the extra fabric added for comfort and movement. This is added after you have measured your "hollow to hem". The amount of ease needed will depend on the garment's style and your personal preference.
Can I use hollow to hem for all types of garments?
While it's particularly crucial for garments that sit at the waist, like dresses and skirts, hollow to hem is less critical for garments like tops or jackets where the fit is less dependent on the waistline. In those cases, shoulder to hem or other measurements might be more relevant.
How important is accuracy when measuring hollow to hem?
Accuracy is paramount! An inaccurate measurement will lead to a poorly fitting garment. It’s best to measure multiple times to ensure consistency and precision. Consider asking a friend or family member to help with accurate measurement, especially for the hollow point location.
Understanding hollow to hem is a key skill for anyone serious about sewing or pattern making. By accurately measuring and understanding this measurement, you can achieve a more professional and flattering finish for your handmade garments.
